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A Week in Snowdonia

17/8/2014

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Well I have got to be honest, I haven't been keeping up to date with my blog. I'm sorry. I know you all need my updates to while away those long hours at work. Lets be honest, most of you just look at the pictures, because the words are usually describing things you don't care about or have time to read about. So this blog is going to be picture heavy.
So where have I been and what have I been up to?

Well its been an interesting week since I last wrote about scrabbling with Jess. So ill start with Saturday last. 

I woke up to another stunning day in North Wales. This particular Saturday morning I was due to meet Sue and Sam (from my winter posts) in the Siabod Cafe (also of previous blog fame) for a day of technical scrambling. Sam was to give Sue and I refreshers about the rope work required. Scrambling is one of those grey areas of mountaineering, the area between walking and climbing. At its lowest grade (1 low 3 high) its little more than needing your hands on occasion, but at the top end its basically easy climbing. Time for a photo.
Picture
Me stepping up onto the ridge. (Photo, Sam Leary)
After coffee and a brief chat we decided to go and give Bastow Buttress on the East Face of Tryfan a go. Its a grade 2 with a grade 3 variant. We roped up and Off I went up the first pitch. First I had to get involved with a chimney then there was an interesting and slightly scarily blank face of rock that I needed to tiptoe up (photo above) after which I found a large block of rock to tie the rope to and belay Sue up on. 
Picture
Me belaying Sue up. (Photo, Sam Leary)
Anyway we moved quickly up the rocky ridge mixing up pitching (climbing properly placing protection while being belayed from below) scary bits and moving together (the first person places protection like slings and clips the rope, the second person follows up when the rope goes tight) on less scary sections. 
Picture
Me finding my way up the rock while Sue belays from below. (Photo, Sam Leary)
Picture
More pictures of me on rock. (Photo, Sue Leary)
Having Sam with us means that there are lots of photos of me for a change. 
Anyway we topped out on the North Ridge of Tryfan just before the start of the proper ridge scramble. We opted to scoot round the top and followed a climbers path to descend a gully back to the valley. We did some other stuff relating to safeguarding each other (short roping) which I'm sure your not interested in. Back at the vans it was time to get cleaned up and get dinner. A really cracking day out. 

Which brings me to Sunday. 

Sunday dawned and so did the Apocalypse. Well ok not the end of all days with dead being spat out from the gates of hell but more a day a really bad weather. 

The Doom was forecast for the afternoon, torrential rain, strong winds. The kind of weather that makes you decide to drink hot chocolate in quaint tea shops. Not the kind of weather to tie yourself to another human being and then attach yourself to an exposed ridge and try and struggle up towards a distant summit. 

So Sue and I being sensible individuals we decided to do the latter. We were determined to make an attempt on Clogwyn y Persons Arete, a remote (ish) grade 3 scramble. Its supposed to be totally rad dude! (Yes I just pretended to be cool). 

Well we ignored Sam's suggestions and convinced her to let us give it a try. Word of advice, when the guide looks at the weather and makes a suggestion its usually a good idea to listen and do what she says. 

Anyway so we slogged up towards the Arete. 90min later we were gearing up at the foot of the climb. A dark brooking gully. Well we had arrived but from our lofty vantage point we could see the Doom arriving. Time to waterproof up. 
Picture
Sue and I waterproofed and geared up. (Photo, Sam Leary)
Well up I went, into the depths of the gully then climbing up the right hand wall. I got up to a belay and started to bring Sue up. At this point the Doom hit us. Sheets of water lashed across us. They swept up the valley and turned the rock climb to a river. As Sue put her hands up to climb water ran down her sleeves. Sam stance had turned into a small waterfall. Fortunately I could put my back to the worst of the rain and focus on keeping Sue's rope tight. 
Picture
Me climbing up the first pitch of the Arete. (Photo, Sam Leary)
Picture
Me abseiling off the route. (Photo, Sam Leary)
We made the decision to run away. I lowered Sue back to the foot of the gully before Sam and I rigged an abseil to escape on. The greyness in the photo of the abseil is the rain.

We legged it off the mountain and retreated to a caffe in Llanberis for hot chocolate and cake. It really was a better idea. We had a chat about future possible adventures (watch this space) before heading our separate ways. 
So thats the weekend over. Monday was spent doing an ML rope work and nav refresher with a Leanne from uni. not very exciting and no photos so I'll move on.

Well it turned out that Leanne had little scrambling experience. Which led to my offering to teach her something. So once again I found myself at the foot of Bastow Butress. This time the idea was to do the grade 3 variant. 
Picture
Leanne looks down from part of the ridge.
I led up the first pitch then brought Leanne up. We pitched a few more sections then we got on to moving together. I took the first part so that I could show Leanne how it was done. Simples. When I ran out of gear I built a belay and Leanne joined me. She then took the lead. 
Picture
Leanne behind me on the ridge.
Picture
Leanne leading up a scramble section.
Picture
Leanne on the upper part of the route, the ridge curves back to the right.
We topped out just below the North Ridge and hand some lunch. By this point we were undecided as what to do. We looked at the rain sweeping across either end of valley and felt the wind buffeting us. We opted to bypass the North ridge and headed round the East side of Tryfan to pop out on the summit. We then legged it off the mountain as I had to collect a friend from the station. 
Picture
Me standing beside a slag heap on the way up Snowdon. (Photo, Cait Devonish)
Wednesday morning dawned dull and drizzly. Well I had collected Cait from the station the night before and it was her first time in the mountains. We decided that she really ought to go up the highest mountain in Wales. Off to Snowdon we went. 

We headed up the South Ridge from Rhy-DDu. Its and interesting walk with just enough rock to make it interesting to the novice walker. There is also far less slogging up well made paths chocker with tourists. 
Picture
Cait has her first drink from a mountain stream.
Picture
Admiring a momentary view through the swirling cloud.
Picture
Cait at the summit looking rather bedraggled.
Not having seen a soul on the way up it was disappointing to reach the summit. It was chocker with wet looking tourists, who had either come up on the train or walked up one of the bigger more advertised paths. The stench of the toilets hit you a dozen metres below the summit. The building on the summit was rammed. You couldn't move without brushing up against a wet waterproof. There was the usual mix of prepared looking people and people who really were shockingly clad for a very wet mountain summit. It was the guy with a long business style coat on, collar turned up at the rain, black glossy slip on shoes and an umbrella! The kind of chap you might expect to bump into in central London on on the summit of the highest mountain in Wales! 

Anyway after warming up and eating lunch we legged it off the summit. Down the Rhy-Ddu path. This is a speedy decent that returns you to the car with out having to retrace many of your steps. 

Cait was happy but fairly shattered after her trek to the summit. 

We headed to the pub for dinner. Pizza and a pint time. To my shock and joy as we walked in I saw two of my friends sitting there. We went and joined them. An evening of merriment followed. We finished dinner and went for a swim in Llyn Padarn. Ruddy freezing!

Thursday dawned and Cait and I decided to go for a scramble up Moel Siabod (the mountain not the caffe). Unfortunately Cait was suffering from the exertions of the previous day. We made it part way up the track before deciding not to continue. We decided to call it a day for North Wales and headed home.

Not a bad week all told. This is also possibly my longest and most rambling Blog ever!
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Scrambling with Jess

7/8/2014

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Well last night after a day of sport climbing in South Wales I drove back to Snowdonia to meet up with Jess Bradshaw. As any of you avid readers will know Jess and I have been known to climb together in the past. Over dinner in her new house we hatched plans for a days scrambling in the Ogwen Valley. 
Picture
My head appearing over the Arete.
Picture
Jess belaying on the Arete.
We headed over to the Ogwen valley and up into The Nameless Cwm. It was scorching! Last time we were here it was murky and wet, a generally miserable day. This was worlds apart. 

We got to the bottom of Cneifion Arete (Grade 3) and geared up. I took the first pitch and headed up, got to the stance and then Jess came up and took the second lead. Once on the ridge proper it was time to move together. I started climbing along the ridge placing gear as it was needed, once the rope went tight on Jess she started climbing up behind me. When I finally ran out of gear I belayed Jess up to me and she headed off up the ridge.  
Picture
Jess coming up the first pitch.
We carried on up the ridge like this till we topped out on the Y Gribin Ridge. Then we followed this up its the crest of the ridge (Grade 2) until we made it up to Glyder Fawr. This was the first time for me. Woooo! From here we dropped down then up towards Y Garn. Before we got there though we cut down the East Ridge of Y Garn (Grade 2). 
Picture
Me leading up the Arete.
We finally found ourself back at Llyn Idwal after a simply cracking day out! We wandered along the beach and picked up the path back to Idwal Cottage and stopped off for ice-cream and cold drinks at the cafe. the perfect end to the day! 
Picture
Me rigging a quick abseil to bypass a tricky step on the decent ridge.
Picture
Scrambling up Y Gribon ridge.
Picture
Jess climbing down the East Ridge. Those are incredibly bright trousers!
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Glyder FAch; Rocks

4/8/2014

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Another day another National Park. Today I'm in Snowdonia to meet Will and hit up some big rock. After a leisurely breakfast at the Pinnacle Cafe in Capel Curig. Another place worth a visit if your in North Wales. 

Will who's working towards his MIA had a list of climbs he wanted to tick off. This suits me down to the ground as all I have to do is tag along and crack up them. Turns out today we were off to Glyder Fach to do so high mountain routes. By which I mean routes high up in the mountains, long walk ins to the climbs. Non of this 5min walk in business, to get to Glyder Fach took us the best part of 80min. Which was worth it to get the crag to ourselves. 
Picture
BELAY SELFIE!!!!
Picture
Looking down towards Cwm Bochlwyd
We ticked off Alpha (VS 4b) on Alphabet Slabs, then carried on up Lot's Wife (VS 4c). We then abseiled back down to the bottom and headed along up to Hawk's Nest Arete (VS 4c). I think that might just be my favourite climb ever. The holds appeared just when you want them. The rock grippy enough that you can trust your feet on the smallest things. I definitely need to work on trusting my feet. 

The only slight problem with getting on the hill after lunch, is that after three routes we were walking off in the dark. Well it was getting gloomy as we headed down from the climbs, and definitely pitch black by the time we got back to the cars.

Shattering, but brilliant. 
Picture
Yet another BELAY SELFIE
Picture
Will leading up some rock.
Picture
Hmmm... a photo of some ropes running up a rock face. Thats a new subject for one of my photos.
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Climbing in the Peak

3/8/2014

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Picture
Howard tackling an awkward chimney.
This weekend (1-3 August) Howard and I went on a long planned climbing trip to the Peak District. As with all the best laid plans of mice and men it didn't quite go to plan. 

What could go wrong? Well it rained. Heavily. 

So we went climbing in Stockport. Which has a massive lead climbing wall at the back of it. Which was fun but not much to write about. 

Then we headed to North Lees campsite plan the rest of the weekend. Headed to Little John's for dinner then retired to our beds. It was still raining. 

We woke up to more rain. Joy of Joys. With nothing to climb we headed to the Outside Cafe in Hathersage for a long breakfast. Over breakfast we planned our climbing course (anyone who would like to learn to climb outdoors drop me an email). 
Picture
Fancy learning to climb
Yes I'm viciously advertising my course. You know you want to learn to climb. 

Anyway, it eventually dried up so we wizzed out to have a look at some venus to use for the course. We have some cracking grit crags to use. 

Anyway it dried up on Sunday, so we got out climbing. It was fun. Here are some photos to tempt you all to come climbing on our course. 
Picture
Me climbing up some rock.
Picture
Isn't the Peak District pretty?
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    I am a climber, mountaineer and outdoor instructor who spends as much time as possible out and about working and playing in the mountains.

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