Last Thursday (19th) I woke up in Telford. I had arrived late the night before and only stopped there as I was on route to Capel Curig and too tired to continue. After coffee I got back in the van and drove off.
Telford Services... not very beautiful.
I arrived in Capel and stopped in the Moel Siabod caffe and awaited the arrival of Sarah B, my climbing partner for the next few days. The food here is really rather good! Sarah turned up and we discussed a plan. I, shame fadedly, admitted that I had never climbed in Penny Pass (a Mecca of North Welsh Climbing). So it was decided that we should head there.
So off we headed. It was mid afternoon by this point and we elected to climb in the sun on the East side of the Pass. Carrefour Wastad proved the ideal spot. A short walk from the road and gloriously lit up by the afternoon sun.
So off we headed. It was mid afternoon by this point and we elected to climb in the sun on the East side of the Pass. Carrefour Wastad proved the ideal spot. A short walk from the road and gloriously lit up by the afternoon sun.
Sarah following up the Arete of Crackstone rib.
Sarah suggested that we have a go at Crackstone Rib (S 4a) and off we went. It was simply glorious climbing. I was convinced to take the first pitch. I was glad I did, the Sever proved to be a good introduction to climbing in the Pass.
I was simply staggered at how positive the holds were. a complete revolution compared the the brutal finger cracks of Peak gristone.
Sarah led the second pitch and we finished up on the top and headed back down for a second route.
I was psyked and easily convinced to push my grade. Skylon (HS) was our next route. This time I let Sarah have the first lead which she did magnificently. I followed up wishing that I had been selfish and asked to lead. The second pitch was a scrambley indistinct pitch, but fun non the less.
I was simply staggered at how positive the holds were. a complete revolution compared the the brutal finger cracks of Peak gristone.
Sarah led the second pitch and we finished up on the top and headed back down for a second route.
I was psyked and easily convinced to push my grade. Skylon (HS) was our next route. This time I let Sarah have the first lead which she did magnificently. I followed up wishing that I had been selfish and asked to lead. The second pitch was a scrambley indistinct pitch, but fun non the less.
The wind had changed direction and a cold breeze was now blowing across the crag. We called it an evening. it was now nearly 7pm. After a brief linger enjoying the view we headed off to the Gally y Glynt for the famous Pizza and Pint deal. Another worth while hang out in the evening. They also have cool table cloths.
Cool table cloths... I wanted one for the van.
Unfortunately the England game kicked off while we were enjoying dinner. So we ran away to Holyhead. The sun was just sinking and setting as we arrived on Holyhead and boy was it spectacular. Just stunning. A good Omen for the day ahead we thought. We were right, but more of that in the next post. Watch this space.
Sun set over South Stack.
