Well I have got to be honest, I haven't been keeping up to date with my blog. I'm sorry. I know you all need my updates to while away those long hours at work. Lets be honest, most of you just look at the pictures, because the words are usually describing things you don't care about or have time to read about. So this blog is going to be picture heavy.
So where have I been and what have I been up to?
Well its been an interesting week since I last wrote about scrabbling with Jess. So ill start with Saturday last.
I woke up to another stunning day in North Wales. This particular Saturday morning I was due to meet Sue and Sam (from my winter posts) in the Siabod Cafe (also of previous blog fame) for a day of technical scrambling. Sam was to give Sue and I refreshers about the rope work required. Scrambling is one of those grey areas of mountaineering, the area between walking and climbing. At its lowest grade (1 low 3 high) its little more than needing your hands on occasion, but at the top end its basically easy climbing. Time for a photo.
Well its been an interesting week since I last wrote about scrabbling with Jess. So ill start with Saturday last.
I woke up to another stunning day in North Wales. This particular Saturday morning I was due to meet Sue and Sam (from my winter posts) in the Siabod Cafe (also of previous blog fame) for a day of technical scrambling. Sam was to give Sue and I refreshers about the rope work required. Scrambling is one of those grey areas of mountaineering, the area between walking and climbing. At its lowest grade (1 low 3 high) its little more than needing your hands on occasion, but at the top end its basically easy climbing. Time for a photo.
Me stepping up onto the ridge. (Photo, Sam Leary)
After coffee and a brief chat we decided to go and give Bastow Buttress on the East Face of Tryfan a go. Its a grade 2 with a grade 3 variant. We roped up and Off I went up the first pitch. First I had to get involved with a chimney then there was an interesting and slightly scarily blank face of rock that I needed to tiptoe up (photo above) after which I found a large block of rock to tie the rope to and belay Sue up on.
Me belaying Sue up. (Photo, Sam Leary)
Anyway we moved quickly up the rocky ridge mixing up pitching (climbing properly placing protection while being belayed from below) scary bits and moving together (the first person places protection like slings and clips the rope, the second person follows up when the rope goes tight) on less scary sections.
Me finding my way up the rock while Sue belays from below. (Photo, Sam Leary)
More pictures of me on rock. (Photo, Sue Leary)
Having Sam with us means that there are lots of photos of me for a change.
Anyway we topped out on the North Ridge of Tryfan just before the start of the proper ridge scramble. We opted to scoot round the top and followed a climbers path to descend a gully back to the valley. We did some other stuff relating to safeguarding each other (short roping) which I'm sure your not interested in. Back at the vans it was time to get cleaned up and get dinner. A really cracking day out.
Which brings me to Sunday.
Sunday dawned and so did the Apocalypse. Well ok not the end of all days with dead being spat out from the gates of hell but more a day a really bad weather.
The Doom was forecast for the afternoon, torrential rain, strong winds. The kind of weather that makes you decide to drink hot chocolate in quaint tea shops. Not the kind of weather to tie yourself to another human being and then attach yourself to an exposed ridge and try and struggle up towards a distant summit.
So Sue and I being sensible individuals we decided to do the latter. We were determined to make an attempt on Clogwyn y Persons Arete, a remote (ish) grade 3 scramble. Its supposed to be totally rad dude! (Yes I just pretended to be cool).
Well we ignored Sam's suggestions and convinced her to let us give it a try. Word of advice, when the guide looks at the weather and makes a suggestion its usually a good idea to listen and do what she says.
Anyway so we slogged up towards the Arete. 90min later we were gearing up at the foot of the climb. A dark brooking gully. Well we had arrived but from our lofty vantage point we could see the Doom arriving. Time to waterproof up.
Anyway we topped out on the North Ridge of Tryfan just before the start of the proper ridge scramble. We opted to scoot round the top and followed a climbers path to descend a gully back to the valley. We did some other stuff relating to safeguarding each other (short roping) which I'm sure your not interested in. Back at the vans it was time to get cleaned up and get dinner. A really cracking day out.
Which brings me to Sunday.
Sunday dawned and so did the Apocalypse. Well ok not the end of all days with dead being spat out from the gates of hell but more a day a really bad weather.
The Doom was forecast for the afternoon, torrential rain, strong winds. The kind of weather that makes you decide to drink hot chocolate in quaint tea shops. Not the kind of weather to tie yourself to another human being and then attach yourself to an exposed ridge and try and struggle up towards a distant summit.
So Sue and I being sensible individuals we decided to do the latter. We were determined to make an attempt on Clogwyn y Persons Arete, a remote (ish) grade 3 scramble. Its supposed to be totally rad dude! (Yes I just pretended to be cool).
Well we ignored Sam's suggestions and convinced her to let us give it a try. Word of advice, when the guide looks at the weather and makes a suggestion its usually a good idea to listen and do what she says.
Anyway so we slogged up towards the Arete. 90min later we were gearing up at the foot of the climb. A dark brooking gully. Well we had arrived but from our lofty vantage point we could see the Doom arriving. Time to waterproof up.
Sue and I waterproofed and geared up. (Photo, Sam Leary)
Well up I went, into the depths of the gully then climbing up the right hand wall. I got up to a belay and started to bring Sue up. At this point the Doom hit us. Sheets of water lashed across us. They swept up the valley and turned the rock climb to a river. As Sue put her hands up to climb water ran down her sleeves. Sam stance had turned into a small waterfall. Fortunately I could put my back to the worst of the rain and focus on keeping Sue's rope tight.
Me climbing up the first pitch of the Arete. (Photo, Sam Leary)
Me abseiling off the route. (Photo, Sam Leary)
We made the decision to run away. I lowered Sue back to the foot of the gully before Sam and I rigged an abseil to escape on. The greyness in the photo of the abseil is the rain.
We legged it off the mountain and retreated to a caffe in Llanberis for hot chocolate and cake. It really was a better idea. We had a chat about future possible adventures (watch this space) before heading our separate ways.
We legged it off the mountain and retreated to a caffe in Llanberis for hot chocolate and cake. It really was a better idea. We had a chat about future possible adventures (watch this space) before heading our separate ways.
So thats the weekend over. Monday was spent doing an ML rope work and nav refresher with a Leanne from uni. not very exciting and no photos so I'll move on.
Well it turned out that Leanne had little scrambling experience. Which led to my offering to teach her something. So once again I found myself at the foot of Bastow Butress. This time the idea was to do the grade 3 variant.
Well it turned out that Leanne had little scrambling experience. Which led to my offering to teach her something. So once again I found myself at the foot of Bastow Butress. This time the idea was to do the grade 3 variant.
Leanne looks down from part of the ridge.
I led up the first pitch then brought Leanne up. We pitched a few more sections then we got on to moving together. I took the first part so that I could show Leanne how it was done. Simples. When I ran out of gear I built a belay and Leanne joined me. She then took the lead.
Leanne behind me on the ridge.
Leanne leading up a scramble section.
Leanne on the upper part of the route, the ridge curves back to the right.
We topped out just below the North Ridge and hand some lunch. By this point we were undecided as what to do. We looked at the rain sweeping across either end of valley and felt the wind buffeting us. We opted to bypass the North ridge and headed round the East side of Tryfan to pop out on the summit. We then legged it off the mountain as I had to collect a friend from the station.
Me standing beside a slag heap on the way up Snowdon. (Photo, Cait Devonish)
Wednesday morning dawned dull and drizzly. Well I had collected Cait from the station the night before and it was her first time in the mountains. We decided that she really ought to go up the highest mountain in Wales. Off to Snowdon we went.
We headed up the South Ridge from Rhy-DDu. Its and interesting walk with just enough rock to make it interesting to the novice walker. There is also far less slogging up well made paths chocker with tourists.
We headed up the South Ridge from Rhy-DDu. Its and interesting walk with just enough rock to make it interesting to the novice walker. There is also far less slogging up well made paths chocker with tourists.
Cait has her first drink from a mountain stream.
Admiring a momentary view through the swirling cloud.
Cait at the summit looking rather bedraggled.
Not having seen a soul on the way up it was disappointing to reach the summit. It was chocker with wet looking tourists, who had either come up on the train or walked up one of the bigger more advertised paths. The stench of the toilets hit you a dozen metres below the summit. The building on the summit was rammed. You couldn't move without brushing up against a wet waterproof. There was the usual mix of prepared looking people and people who really were shockingly clad for a very wet mountain summit. It was the guy with a long business style coat on, collar turned up at the rain, black glossy slip on shoes and an umbrella! The kind of chap you might expect to bump into in central London on on the summit of the highest mountain in Wales!
Anyway after warming up and eating lunch we legged it off the summit. Down the Rhy-Ddu path. This is a speedy decent that returns you to the car with out having to retrace many of your steps.
Cait was happy but fairly shattered after her trek to the summit.
We headed to the pub for dinner. Pizza and a pint time. To my shock and joy as we walked in I saw two of my friends sitting there. We went and joined them. An evening of merriment followed. We finished dinner and went for a swim in Llyn Padarn. Ruddy freezing!
Thursday dawned and Cait and I decided to go for a scramble up Moel Siabod (the mountain not the caffe). Unfortunately Cait was suffering from the exertions of the previous day. We made it part way up the track before deciding not to continue. We decided to call it a day for North Wales and headed home.
Not a bad week all told. This is also possibly my longest and most rambling Blog ever!
Anyway after warming up and eating lunch we legged it off the summit. Down the Rhy-Ddu path. This is a speedy decent that returns you to the car with out having to retrace many of your steps.
Cait was happy but fairly shattered after her trek to the summit.
We headed to the pub for dinner. Pizza and a pint time. To my shock and joy as we walked in I saw two of my friends sitting there. We went and joined them. An evening of merriment followed. We finished dinner and went for a swim in Llyn Padarn. Ruddy freezing!
Thursday dawned and Cait and I decided to go for a scramble up Moel Siabod (the mountain not the caffe). Unfortunately Cait was suffering from the exertions of the previous day. We made it part way up the track before deciding not to continue. We decided to call it a day for North Wales and headed home.
Not a bad week all told. This is also possibly my longest and most rambling Blog ever!