A lot of Firsts on this trip! Llanberis and now Gogarth! We woke up to beautiful weather. The blues were incredibly blue, deep and light all at the same time. 

We had decided to have a leisurely breakfast at 9 in the RSPB cafe. imagine our surprise when we wandered over at 9 to find it didn't open till 10! Sarah uttered some fateful words "Shall we do a route before breakfast?". 

We decided to do a route.

With no experience of climbing at Gogarth I let Sarah choose the route. She suggested Rap VS 4c as it finished at the abeseil point. The VS grade scared me a little but I was determined to give it a go. 

Sarah racked up her gear while I rigged the abseil. Then it was time to take off our shoes and Sarah disappeared over the edge. 

She was soon down and I clipped onto the rope and followed her down. By the time I had reached her (it is a long abseil) she had rigged the belay so I clipped in and we started sorting the ropes.

Ropes done Sarah led off. She made the climbing look effortless and I was ever to get on it. After a slight struggle in the middle of the pitch she reached the belay and brought me up. It was impressively good holds. I finally understood why climbing walls are the way they are! 

I decided to have a go at the second pitch. It was fun climbing. Great holds, brilliant gear and just enough exposure. I really can't do it justice. 

I finished up the second pitch and brought Sarah back up to the abseil point. It was about 1pm and the tide was on its way back in. If we wanted another route on Gogath it would have to be before breakfast, again!

We abseiled back down and this time Sarah led off up the first pitch of Lighthouse Arete (VS 4c), intact she ran pitches one and two together to speed up the climbing. 

I quickly followed her up and met her at the belay. I realised that I now had to do the crux of the route. A powerful overhung move. This worried me but it had bomber gear so up I went. After the initial moves it was a pleasant pitch. I ran pitch three and four together and found myself back at the abseil point. Superb climbing. 

It was now 3pm so we decided that it was probably time for breakfast. Unfortunately for us the Caffe disagreed. In fact by the time we got there eat 3:15pm it had finished serving any form of food, other than coffee and cake. So it was a van lunch. Over lunch I was talked into one final climb in the Pass on my way to Purbeck for work the next day. I was easily persuaded, 

We were led up a gloriously positive climb in the Pass (Wind HVS 5b), I was very glad I didn't have to lead it. I finally reached the van at 6pm, after a glorious day, ready for a long nights drive to Dorset (I finally arrived at 3am)

Totally Worth It! 

Cheers Sarah for a great couple of days.

Last Thursday (19th) I woke up in Telford. I had arrived late the night before and only stopped there as I was on route to Capel Curig and too tired to continue. After coffee I got back in the van and drove off. 

I arrived in Capel and stopped in the Moel Siabod caffe and awaited the arrival of Sarah B, my climbing partner for the next few days. The food here is really rather good! Sarah turned up and we discussed a plan. I, shame fadedly, admitted that I had never climbed in Penny Pass (a Mecca of North Welsh Climbing). So it was decided that we should head there. 

So off we headed. It was mid afternoon by this point and we elected to climb in the sun on the East side of the Pass. Carrefour Wastad proved the ideal spot. A short walk from the road and gloriously lit up by the afternoon sun.

Sarah suggested that we have a go at Crackstone Rib (S 4a) and off we went. It was simply glorious climbing. I was convinced to take the first pitch. I was glad I did, the Sever proved to be a good introduction to climbing in the Pass. 

I was simply staggered at how positive the holds were. a complete revolution compared the the brutal finger cracks of Peak gristone. 

Sarah led the second pitch and we finished up on the top and headed back down for a second route.

I was psyked and easily convinced to push my grade. Skylon (HS) was our next route. This time I let Sarah have the first lead which she did magnificently. I followed up wishing that I had been selfish and asked to lead. The second pitch was a scrambley indistinct pitch, but fun non the less. 

The wind had changed direction and a cold breeze was now blowing across the crag. We called it an evening. it was now nearly 7pm. After a brief linger enjoying the view we headed off to the Gally y Glynt for the famous Pizza and Pint deal. Another worth while hang out in the evening. They also have cool table cloths. 

Unfortunately the England game kicked off while we were enjoying dinner. So we ran away to Holyhead. The sun was just sinking and setting as we arrived on Holyhead and boy was it spectacular. Just stunning. A good Omen for the day ahead we thought. We were right, but more of that in the next post. Watch this space.