My First Climb on Gogarth

A lot of Firsts on this trip! Llanberis and now Gogarth! We woke up to beautiful weather. The blues were incredibly blue, deep and light all at the same time. 

We had decided to have a leisurely breakfast at 9 in the RSPB cafe. imagine our surprise when we wandered over at 9 to find it didn't open till 10! Sarah uttered some fateful words "Shall we do a route before breakfast?". 

Morning views to South Stack.

We decided to do a route.

With no experience of climbing at Gogarth I let Sarah choose the route. She suggested Rap VS 4c as it finished at the abeseil point. The VS grade scared me a little but I was determined to give it a go. 

Sarah racked up her gear while I rigged the abseil. Then it was time to take off our shoes and Sarah disappeared over the edge. 

Sarah abseiling to the start of the climb.

She was soon down and I clipped onto the rope and followed her down. By the time I had reached her (it is a long abseil) she had rigged the belay so I clipped in and we started sorting the ropes.

Ropes done Sarah led off. She made the climbing look effortless and I was ever to get on it. After a slight struggle in the middle of the pitch she reached the belay and brought me up. It was impressively good holds. I finally understood why climbing walls are the way they are! 

"But first let me take a selfie"

I decided to have a go at the second pitch. It was fun climbing. Great holds, brilliant gear and just enough exposure. I really can't do it justice. 

Me leading up pith 2 of Rap.

I finished up the second pitch and brought Sarah back up to the abseil point. It was about 1pm and the tide was on its way back in. If we wanted another route on Gogath it would have to be before breakfast, again!

We abseiled back down and this time Sarah led off up the first pitch of Lighthouse Arete (VS 4c), intact she ran pitches one and two together to speed up the climbing. 

Sarah leading the traverse.

I quickly followed her up and met her at the belay. I realised that I now had to do the crux of the route. A powerful overhung move. This worried me but it had bomber gear so up I went. After the initial moves it was a pleasant pitch. I ran pitch three and four together and found myself back at the abseil point. Superb climbing. 

It was now 3pm so we decided that it was probably time for breakfast. Unfortunately for us the Caffe disagreed. In fact by the time we got there eat 3:15pm it had finished serving any form of food, other than coffee and cake. So it was a van lunch. Over lunch I was talked into one final climb in the Pass on my way to Purbeck for work the next day. I was easily persuaded, 

Sarah paying close attention to belaying me...

We were led up a gloriously positive climb in the Pass (Wind HVS 5b), I was very glad I didn't have to lead it. I finally reached the van at 6pm, after a glorious day, ready for a long nights drive to Dorset (I finally arrived at 3am)

Totally Worth It! 

Cheers Sarah for a great couple of days.